A Tale of Two Families: Sustainable Family Wines From Portugal to Piemonte

From the mind of Food & Beverage Director, Joseph Catterson

“After searching for a suitable rural, agricultural spot to relocate their family and enter the wine business, former Naval Commander Paulo Tavares da Silva and his wife, Alice, settled on an estate dating back to the 16th century, located in the sunny hills of Alenquer, just north of Lisbon. Acquiring the property in the 1980s, they immediately embarked on replanting and regrafting the property’s 110 acres of nearly abandoned vineyards. Since 2000, winemaking has been in the highly capable hands of their youngest daughter, Sandra Tavares, with daughter Andrea eventually joining the management team as well. With a commitment to sustainable agriculture and a deft embrace of both traditional and contemporary winemaking practices, the family produces wines that elegantly represent the terroir of a region whose viticultural history dates back to Roman times.

The DeForville family emigrated to Piedmont from Belgium in 1848, establishing themselves as grape growers in the village of Barbaresco in 1860 under the direction of Gioachino DeForville. Today, his great-great-grandsons Valter and Paolo Anfasso (DeForvilles on their mother’s side) are in charge. Paolo and Valter describe their work as producing “wines with personality,” rooted in careful vineyard management, where respect for nature is essential to growing quality fruit and crafting wines that best represent the heritage and tradition of their renowned region.

Barbera is a grape that always asserts its character wherever it is grown, but it clearly shines at home in Piemonte. Much of the fruit for this bottle comes from an excellent site in Barbaresco; it is a truly vibrant wine. The nose leads with earthiness, aromas of olives, spice, and darker fruits, carrying through on the palate with notes of dark cherry and black raspberry. Barbera’s typical bright acidity is well matched by the wine’s ripeness and gently tempered with very fine, soft tannins. The finish lingers with an echo of candied red fruit and mouth-watering balance.

The Chocapalha Tinto is a blend of local varietals, led by Touriga Nacional, with Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Castelão, and touches of Grenache and Touriga Franca. Its deep color hints at the richness of a Touriga-based wine. The aroma suggests black cherry, plum, and fig, with subtle notes of chalky minerals (the vineyards are rich in limestone), spice, and perhaps a touch of local eucalyptus. On the palate, it is juicy, with a balanced grip of medium tannins, plenty of dark berries and plum, and a hint of leather and dried fruit as the wine begins to show maturity.

Both wines are currently available at our bar. I’ve enjoyed sipping them and especially appreciate how happily they pair with a wide range of foods. In one sense, they eloquently speak for themselves: products of well-tended grapes that showcase their inherent character and clearly convey a sense of place. But I also enjoy knowing who is guiding them along. I’ve had the chance to meet the Tavares sisters, taste their wines with them, and hear about their estate and family operation. Their obvious passion and integrity are completely charming, and I appreciated the opportunity to glimpse that firsthand. I haven’t yet met the Anfasso brothers but hope to someday. I’ve no doubt I would admire them as well—and salute their family’s multigenerational commitment. To a great extent, their five generations have already spoken eloquently through their wine.”